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Vinyl lattice lowes install#
So go ahead, cut it and install anywhere. Next time.Īnother thing that I didn't get around to was adding mesh to the soffits to keep flying critters out (you didn't mention it because it's none shown in any of the photos, but it's pretty obvious in person).You won’t have a raw, off colored edge exposed. I should've assembled and painted the walls completely before standing them up. That's a good tip for painting the walls. There isn't anything too heavy in the shed though. I didn't encounter blocking of floor joists in many of the resources I consulted, but I can see how it might be helpful. And there's a little bit of roof overhang on the gable end to hopefully keep most rain off the wall that high up anyway. I did put trim pieces over the joins and caulk everything thoroughly, at least. Good call on the Z-bar flashing (another thing I haven't heard of before, and none of the books I used mentioned it). You've got me on the roof clips - that was my bad. Is that really enough to warrant putting in three more? I did research on 16" vs 24" OC studs and it didn't seem to make much of a difference for a structure this small.ĭigging the holes for the existing six piers was already enough work, and the unsupported span between any of them is a maximum of six feet width-wise. But I think this is good knowledge for people interested in this type of project to have. Your shed looks great and will serve its purpose well. I do not intended this as a criticism of you. That's why the building codes have a minimum cover for rebar enclosed in concrete.Īll this being said. And the danger is that as the exposed rebar rusts it will expand and that expansion will work it's way into your footing cracking it. The point of the rebar is to add tensile strength to the concrete flooting not 'pin' it to the ground. Like I said you might have done this but I can't really tell.Īlso, you should never have rebar that is part of a footing sticking out into the ground. Usually they are placed at or just below grade to provide a clean base and are not incorporated as part of the footing and the majority of the footing is in direct contact with the soil. Cast piers get alot of their capacity from the lateral soil pressure pushing on the sides, why old fence posts and stakes can be so hard to pull out, and using the sona tube reduced this contact. I can't really tell from your pictures, but I think your larger problem was putting the sona tubes down in the hole. The challenge to creating them, especially on larger footings, often out weight their benefit as it is usually easier to just dig a slightly bigger footing. While those "elephant feet" add some surface area to the bottom of your footing and increase its vertical bearing capacity and they are not necessary or as far as I know common.
These are just some things that could be done to improve the structure and really help it last to serve your grandchildren Other than that, the shed was built really well. A plastic tray under the threshold of the door will help keep moisture from entering Radiant Barrier roof fly will help keep it cooler in the summer months
A tip for painting - square your walls laying down, nail on siding, pour paint directly onto the wall and roll out with a large roller to get in all the cracks/seams easily with a nice thick coat of paint Blocking needed on joints between floor joists Joints of T1-11 on gable end needs z-bar flashing to prevent water from coming in and rotting edges (Smartside somes in 10' sheets to avoid this all together) Incorrect usage of roof clips and not aligning on rafters A row of piers running down the middle of the shed to support the load and prevent flexing I'll list everything I saw and will go into more detail if requested: r/DIY now has a Discord channel! Come chat with us!ĭid you miss the AMA with Patrick DiJusto? Click here to read it!Īll content must be DIY - if you paid for the work or found it posted online it is not DIY.
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